We've spent a lot of time in the past 2 years focusing on the creation of our men's line of product.  It can be a huge challenge to market and sell natural, freshly-made skin care to men for several reasons.  For one, men are not always the purchasers of their own personal care.  More often than not, in a partnership, women are the primary "shoppers" of a household.  Men trust their partners to make decisions in product for them and will use what is available in their household.  Also, men tend to want to keep things simple, using as few products as possible, and keeping their daily cleansing and pampering routines short and sweet, and mistakenly see handcrafted or organic products as too much luxury.  Finally, and probably most importantly, men don't realize how much their commercial products may be harming their health, chipping away at their immune system and all the aspects of their endocrine (hormonal) system.  All three of these reasons, but especially the last one, is why, despite the challenges of getting men on board, we haven't, and won't give up.

What is the Endocrine System?
Maybe you've heard this before, or maybe you haven't, that many of the chemical ingredients found in commercial skincare are potential endocrine disruptors.  The endocrine system is also referred to as our "hormone system".  All mammals have one, and they are made up of glands located throughout the body.  These glands make hormones that are released into the bloodstream and receptors in various organs and tissues recognize and respond to these hormones.  Some people think of hormones as only being important to the reproductive system and, when we are past our reproductive age or desire, it doesn't really matter anymore.  This is simply not true, as hormones are responsible for many of our healthy body functions like  growth (including the development of the brain and nervous system), energy (including metabolism and blood sugar control), and the reproductive system that regulates testosterone and estrogen in men and women.  The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has identified through scientific research on human epidemiology, lab animals, and wildlife studies that chemical contaminants (some that are commonly found in commercial personal care) can disrupt endocrine function that lead to adverse health consequences.  These consequences include developmental malformations, reproductive interference, increased cancer risk, and issues with immune system and nervous system function. 

What to Avoid, and What to Use Instead
Creating healthy products people can safely use every day takes a lot of research on which toxins to avoid, and which alternatives will perform the best.  We've identified 3 ingredients over the years that are known to be both harmful and very common in commercial products.  These include sulfates, phthalates, and parabens. 

Sulfates
Sulfates can be identified on an ingredient label as having the word "sulfate" in the ingredients name.  The most common (and most disruptive) is sodium lauryl sulfate or SLS. Sulfates are made when sulfuric acid interacts with another chemical and forms a salt.  They almost always found in products that lather (shampoo, body wash, dish and hand soap, etc.).  Sulfates are widely used because of their amazing lathering capabilities, as well as being cheap to produce.  While lather generally does mean cleansing, lack of lather doesn't mean something is not cleansing.  Sulfates have been shown to be contaminated with a chemical called 1,4 dioxane, one of the chemicals the EPA has detected as being an endocrine disruptor.  In addition, these lathering agents have the propensity to be highly skin irritating.  In my own experience, I find that individuals with skin issues find relief almost immediately once they remove sulfates from their daily routine.  Luckily, there are many plant-based lathering agents available as alternatives.  One of my favorites is "glucosides".  These are often derived from sugar and much more gentle to the skin than sulfates, but still produce great lather.

Parabens
Another common ingredient that is well worth avoiding is parabens.  There is a laundry list of surnames for parabens that can be identified by the word "paraben" in the last part of the word (methylparaben is a common example).  Parabens are strong chemical preservatives that extend the shelf life of water-based products like lotion and shampoo.  A good preservative that can ward off bacteria and mold is absolutely necessary for any water-based product being sold to the public.  Unless you are making your own product, using it within 2 weeks, and keeping it refrigerated, it needs to be properly preserved.  Because parabens are chemicals, they are identified by the body as toxins and often difficult to eliminate, taking a toll on the kidneys and liver.  Overtime, with enough use, they can build up in our body and tax the immune system.  Specifically dangerous to men, they are also found to produce estrogen and disrupt endocrine function.  Although there are many effective naturally-derived alternatives (GSB, Linatural, and Leucidal Complete are examples), they may not be strong enough to allow for the extensive manufacture lead, storage, travel, and shelf times of mass-produced products.  This is why purchasing from local manufacturers who value small batch freshness is a safer, healthier option for daily use products.

Phthalates
The third ingredients to avoid unfortunately hides well within an ingredients list, and unless you are aware of a specific brand's practice when it comes to fragrance, you may not even know that phthalates are present.  By law, companies do not have to disclose their fragrances, even essential oils because they are propriatary.  On an ingredient label, all that is necessary is the word "fragrance", which could mean anything to a consumer.  Phthalates are a family of industrial chemicals used to soften polyvinyl chloride (PVC) plastic and as solvents in cosmetics and other consumer products, specifically in artificially produced fragrances.   Asthma, diabetes, breast cancer, and male infertility are just a few of the issues that have been linked to phthalates.  While using essential oils rather than fragrance oils is a sure way to avoid them, not all desired fragrances can be created with plant-based oils.  For those that are synthetic, suppliers will disclose those fragrances that are "phthalate free".  For our company, we purchase only limited synthetic fragrance oils and always choose those that are documented as phthalate-free.  In addition, all essential oils are listed on our ingredient labels to ensure customers with allergies and sensitivities know what they're putting on their skin.

Our skin is our biggest organ, absorbing approximately 60% of what we put on it.  America is one of the few westernized countries that still allows domestic manufacturers to use known harmful chemicals in our personal care products.  While it takes some effort and education to avoid these harmful substances, there are companies that take great time and care to avoid them and find effective alternatives.  If you're lucky enough to have one in your own community, make a point to seek them out and support their efforts.  Your body will thank you.

To read the EPA's documentation on Endocrine Disruption, follow this link to their website:  www.epa.gov/endocrine-disruption/what-endocrine-disruption.  

You don't always have to look far for great skincare ingredients, sometimes not even farther than your own backyard!  When I'm beginning to envision a new line of products, I always start with a "hero" ingredient...that one ingredient that gets to shine on it's own, and with other complimentary companions.  While historically dandelions have been thought of as an invasive lawn weed, in modern natural living we know that this precious botanical is much, much more.  It is an important player in our eco-system, a superfood for us and our buzzing bees, and maybe most importantly, the little ray of sunshine that means spring has sprung and life is about to explode all around us!

MY HERO
When I started to imaging the hero of a botanically-based acne skincare line, I was thrilled to find out that what I needed was not only close, but in great abundance all around me.  While some of the most amazing ingredients come from half a world away, this one is about as fresh and local as it gets.  Dandelion is great at reducing inflammation and skin sensitivities.  The root is also high in vitamins A, B, C, and D as well as iron, potassium and zinc, all of which promote clear skin.  When applied topically to acne, it inhibits microbial infection, and taking the dried blossoms internally as a tea can help to detoxify the liver, which also aids in clear, healthy skin.

GETTING TO THE ROOT
My focus for our line was the botanical extracts of both the roots and flowers.  Extract refers to infusing liquid with plant matter and allowing the hydro (water) and lipid (fat) soluble components of these plants to combine with the liquids, allowing them to carry their benefits into a formula.  I created a tincture, or alcohol extract, using a combination of high-proof organic vodka and dandelion roots, to use in both a cream-based moisturizer, blemish stick, serum, and toner.  This process involved harvesting dandelion roots before they flowered, when their therapeutic components are at their highest concentrations.  These roots I cleaned, dried, chopped very fine to give the most surface area contact, and placed into an amber bottle for a month, shaking every few days.  The result was the crystal clear vodka turning to a dark, bronze dandelion extract rich with all the vitamins and antioxidants of the dandelion roots.
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WATCH ME BLOSSOM
For the dandelion oil, I chose blossoms that had opened in the morning, and waited until the morning dew had evaporated.  I picked these blossoms and sundried them outside for 24 hours until wilted.  I then placed them in a mason jar about 3/4 full and topped it off with organic grapeseed oil.  These sat in a sunny window for about 2 weeks, stirring every couple of days to release the therapeutic properties.  When strained, the grapeseed oil changed from a light green color to a deep yellow.  The change in color is important to let me know the oil was now charged with all the anti-inflammatory goodness of the blossoms.  After triple-straining through cheesecloth, I placed the finished oil in a protective amber glass growler and moved it to the fridge to keep it from oxidizing and becoming rancid.  Refrigeration of carrier and essential oils is a great way to extend their shelf life and protect their precious chemistry.  The idea that we should not moisturize acne skin is a myth.  It's not about avoiding moisture, but choosing the right ingredients that bring a healthy amount of moisture, balance hormonal oil secretion, and help to cleanse bacteria and microbes that cause infection.  Our facial moisturizer and serum pairs several of these important ingredients with our dandelion extracts, and completes this important aspect of a consistent skincare regiment.

Although these ingredients could be purchased from a supplier, I love creating these elements with plants from my own farm, and connecting so closely to all the ways we live synergistically in the natural world.  To see these changes myself, and be a part of the whole process from harvest to completion of a medicinal product, is extremely satisfying, and the results speak for themselves.  

From an over-abundance of plastic bottles, to multiple products that do the same thing, our showers can collect a lot of clutter.  Often times, we can feel overwhelmed by the products that surround us during times that should be relaxing and renewing.  We are constantly being sold more and more options for our personal care, many that we just don't need, or even want, but feel pressured to have.  I'm here to tell you, it doesn't have to be this way!  Decluttering your shower not only makes it visually a more relaxing place to be (and, let's face it, beyond just getting clean, that's what showers and baths do best!), it also brings awareness to the idea that great personal care products can be used on more than one body part, create less expense and less waste, and allow us to fully enjoy each item to the last drop, rather than creating half-empty bottles we've lost interest in, but "feel bad" getting rid of before they're gone.  We recently took the opportunity to help a few of our customers find healthy, low-waste options to go from "too much going on", to a minimalist's shower dream!

"Her Shower" Before + After
Looking at the "before" shower above, we can see this person has collected many products from body wash and shampoo, to soaps and cleansers, and the amount of bottles is extensive.  There is a lot of plastic, including plastic loofah sponges, that have no end life...except to exist in a landfill for the next 500 years.  The two built-in shelves aren't enough to contain the clutter, so an additional hanging shelf had to be purchased to house the products, most of which aren't getting used because they didn't perform the way they promised.  That's a lot of trips to the store, a lot of money spent, and a lot of waste created unnecessarily.  Working with customers to find a product that's both effective and healthy is what we love to do!  This experience was most rewarding to educate our customers that many of our products can be applied for multiple uses.  Did you know, shampoo and body washes, when made with natural, plant based ingredients, are basically the same thing?  While some ingredients are touted for their great head care abilities, these same ingredients are great for skin and other hairy parts. 


​We swapped multiple bottles of body wash and shampoo for one multi-use option.  One bottle of liquid and a jar of conditioner, and even those don't need to be tossed because of our unique refill option. 

We were able to get rid of the plastic sponges and additional soap by swapping the two with our natural luffa embedded body scrub.  Natural luffas are not only biodegradable, they can also be used for household cleaning, in crafts, and more after the soap is gone.  They are machine washable and one of our favorite ways to store our bar products between uses.  When they've given all they can, they can be safely tossed outside to decompose or used as a firestarter.  

We swapped multiple bottles of cleansers and exfoliators for various body parts with our beautiful face whip, a lovely, gently exfoliating formula that can be used everyday.  Because we removed so much additional clutter, we even had room to make way for a shower steamer, bringing even more of a spa-like experience to this precious me-time routine.

Most men we work with want to keep their self-care simple, yet they still get bombarded with options for even the most modest needs.  We took this customer from bottles to bars, without giving up any of the results they seek.  Replacing bottles of shampoo and conditioner with bars is extremely economical and adds a level of ease to daily washing up.  The shampoo bar can easily double as a body wash, and so can shaving soap!  I often use shaving soap for my whole person because I love the silky feel of clay.  Clay in shaving soap helps the razor slip comfortably across the skin, but it also helps to draw out toxins from the body, making it the perfect product for cleansing and shaving.  Gone, again, is the extra wire shelving, and we welcome luffas to prop up our bars to dry and extend their use.

Shared showers bring unique challenges when it comes to having the right amount of product.  With family members of multiple genders, ages, and skincare needs, the amount of product in the shower can add up quickly!  I was excited to introduce this family to products that can be used in multiple ways by multiple family members.  Where originally bottles of shampoo, conditioner, body wash, and bubble bath once sat, we offered the option of our combination shampoo + body wash (which can also be used as bubble bath!) for the liquid lovers and a shampoo bar for those who prefer to keep it package-free.  A refillable jar of hair conditioner that can be used on any hair type in a fragrance everyone loved replaced multiple conditioner bottles.  Bar soaps fun enough for kids and strong enough for teens reduced the plastic of even more body wash, and a tub of shaving butter that can also be used as a facial cleanser can be used by multiple family members.  Taking away a bag of bath salts and replacing it with a refillable jar reduces clutter and waste, yet again!  Plenty of luffas make it easy to scrub and store bar products with no landfill footprint (and scraps are always free at YB Urban?!).  

Are you ready to take the leap and make your shower a place to relax and renew rather than a source of anxiety and stress?  Pop into the shop or send me a message to find out how our expertise can ease the burden of constant product disappointment, overspending, and waste.  

One of my favorite things about aromatherapy is the way it supports us as a whole; physically, mentally, emotionally, and spiritually.  If you've ever watched a loved one go in and out of the hospital for various ailments to their physical body, you may have noticed the way modern medicine focuses on an issue, just one part of the whole, which, at times, will seek to damage other parts of the person.  I respect modern medicine, emergency care, and the ability of prescription drugs to help with specific issues, but I am even more in awe of the plant world, and how plant oils interact with our bodies on a holistic level, addressing all the issues that come with being human.  The way that humans have figured out how to blend different plant attributes to achieve powerful healing methods is at the foundation of aromatherapy and herbalist studies.  How we have been able to break down the science of plants, see on a molecular level what their components can do, and use them to our benefit blows my mind!  I am both grateful and humbled by the opportunity to continue to grow, harvest, and use these miracles of nature.  In my own "healing garden" last summer I was able to grow 2 of the 3 plants that make up the amazing "Trauma Oil" (the 3rd I purchased from a reliable source) and take them along the process of creating a powerhouse carrier oil that can benefit us in times of healing from head to toe.

St. John's Wort
​I started my journey growing St John's Wort 2 years ago.  St. John's Wort is a bushy plant that produces cute yellow flowers.  It's these flowers that have so many benefits to us, from relieving soreness and pain in muscles, to mood enhancement that relieves anxiety, allowing us to feel optimistic and hopeful.  On our farm, my healing garden is situated very close to our beehives, and the bees flock to these flowers when in bloom.  In my research, I have found the best time to harvest these little flowers is when they are barely opening and have retained the optimal amount of their therapeutic elements.  Once harvested they are left to dry for 24 hours and then immersed in fresh-pressed, organic extra virgin olive oil.  I place the jar of oil and blooms in the sun to sit for 30 days, and the result is a beautiful reddish oil with all of the wonderful attributes of St. John's Wort.

 Calendula
Very different than the 2 years it took for my St, John's wort to product enough to actually do an infusion, my calendula has taken off since year one!  It's a wonderful perennial that comes back in abundance year after year, and I can harvest it for many months, collecting more than enough to make an oil infusion, and have plenty more for extracts and tea.  Because calendula can be extracted fresh or dry, I used some of my sun-dried blossoms in organic olive oil and let it sit in my east-facing shop window for several weeks.  The result is a dark yellow oil with some amazing skin benefits.  Calendula oil can calm redness, comfort ongoing skin irritations, and be used in first-aid for purification and healing of injury sites.  On it's own calendula oil is safe to use on open wounds.

Arnica
The third oil infusion that makes up our Trauma Oil blend is Arnica.  Funny story, we purchased arnica seeds about 2 years ago, started them in pots, and then transplanted them outside.  The first year we got a few pretty red and yellow flowers, but not enough to be useful.  The next year, our St. John's Wort took off so much, we moved the arnica to a different area so both could have plenty of space to spread.  Being perennials, they continue to expand their botanical footprint from year to year, producing more and more of these amazing ingredients, much to my delight.  Last year we had enough arnica blossoms to make an infusion, but, as I was researching the best way to do it I discovered that what we had wasn't arnica at all, it was a flower with the common name "Blanket Flower".  I believe the mix up from the seed company came from the fact that blanket flower has the word "arnica" in the botanical name, but arnica flowers are yellow, not red and yellow.  I also was a bit disappointed that after 2 years cultivating this crop I couldn't find even one therapeutic use for blanket flower.  The uses of arnica range from soothing bumps and bruises, to promoting circulation, and reducing the appearance of scars.  We were able to source organic arnica infused olive oil from a trusted supplier, and have ordered new seeds this year to start the process again.  Because arnica oil stimulates blood flow, it is not advisable to use on open wounds, but can do wonders for stiff joints and pain from poor circulation.

After combining my two infusions with the arnica oil, I am very happy with the resulting Trauma Oil.  I have used it as a massage oil with a beautiful blend of essential oils I call "Calm Connections" (Siberian fir needle, Frankincense, Myrhh, Sweet orange, Roman chamomile, and Helichrysum essential oils) that has reduced the pain and help to heal a persistent tendon injury in my elbow, and some of my practitioner friends in the massage and acupuncture fields are currently using it on their clients, as well.  There is something very powerful about infusing oil with plants and finding all the ways they support our whole body wellness through injury, trauma, and healing.